EMBOSSING 

MADE  EASY 


BY 

P.  J.  LAWLOR 


SECOND  EDITION.    REVISED  AND  ENLARGED 


PRICE,  ONE  DOLLAR 


MALDEN,  MASS. 
Published  by  the  Author 
1894 


Copyright,  1894, 
By  p.  J.  Lawlor. 


PREFATORY  NOTE. 


Recognizing  the  practical  value  of  this  little  book, 
I  have  endeavored,  in  revising  it  for  a  second  edition, 
in  compliance  with  the  author's  request,  to  supply 
additional  information  on  points  which  were  not  made 
sufficiently  clear  in  the  first  edition. 

The  specimen  pages  illustrate  the  adaptability  of 
various  kinds  of  stock  in  common  use  to  the  emboss- 
ing process,  and  a  page  has  also  been  added  showing 
recent  type  designs  which  lend  themselves  readily  to 
this  treatment. 

Any  practical  printer  should  be  able,  after  a  few 
preliminary  experiments,  to  produce  embossed  work 
by  any  of  the  methods  described  in  the  following 
pages.  Should  further  information  be  desired,  it  will 
be  cheerfully  furnished  on  receipt  of  a  stamped  en- 
velope for  reply. 


Boston,  Jicne^  1894. 


3 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

The  Female  Die   9 

The  Male  or  Counter  Die   12 

Hard  Rubber  Method   12 

The  Clay  Method   15 

Leather  Counter  Dies   16 

Papier  Mache  Counter  Dies   18 

Wax  Counter  Dies   20 

Instructions  for  Making  Dies   21 

Cardboard  Dies   21 

Wood  and  Metal  Dies   22 

Zinc  Dies   24 

Stock,  Inks,  Bronzes,  etc   25 

Presses  for  Embossing   27 

Hints  and  Suggestions   29 


S 


EMBOSSING 


IS  the  process  of  raising  or  sinking  a  design  by  pres- 
sure on  different  materials.  For  general  printing, 
such  as  show  cards,  pamphlet  covers,  business  cards, 
labels,  etc.,  the  design  is  raised.  For  book  covers 
and  similar  work,  the  design  is  sunk  or  pressed  into 
the  material,  the  dies  being  either  hot  or  cold,  accord- 
ing to  the  nature  of  the  work.  For  heavy  show  cards, 
either  or  both  methods  can  be  used. 

In  the  old  methods  of  embossing,  both  the  male  and 
female  dies  were  made  of  metal,  and  the  work  was 
done  on  a  screw  press  by  hand,  the  process  being 
difficult  and  laborious.  For  some  purposes  the  color 
was  also  applied  by  hand,  and  the  printing  and  em- 
bossing were  done  at  the  same  operation.  At  the 
present  time  this  method  is  still  employed  in  copper- 
plate printing  and  stamping. 

When  it  was  discovered,  a  few  years  ago,  that  em- 
bossing could  be  done  on  ordinary  printing  presses, 
and  the  male  and  female  dies  made  from  different 
materials  and  by  simple  methods,  it  was  an  easy  mat- 
ter to  extend  the  idea  and  apply  it  to  general  use. 
Embossmg  gives  style  and  character  to  printed  matter 
as  nothing  else  can,  and  every  printer  should  at  least 
understand  the  subject  and  the  methods  of  producing 
this  class  of  work. 

7 


8 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


As  applied  to  ordinary  printing,  the  form  to  be  em- 
bossed is  first  printed  in  the  usual  way,  with  gold  size 
and  bronze,  or  ordinary  printing  ink.  After  the  im- 
pression has  had  time  to  dry,  the  job  is  run  through 
the  press  a  second  time,  and  the  lettering  or  design  is 
raised  or  embossed,  by  being  forced  into  the  emboss- 
ing die,  by  means  of  a  counter  die  on  the  platen  of 
press.  The  embossing  die,  or  female  die  as  it  is  fre- 
quently called,  is  locked  up  in  the  chase  like  an 
ordinary  electrotype.  The  inking  rollers  are  removed 
from  the  press,  as  they  are  not  required  while  the 
embossing  is  being  done. 

New  and  novel  effects,  combined  with  good  printing, 
can  be  obtained  by  embossing,  and  utilized  in  a  num- 
ber of  ways  with  profit.  During  leisure  hours  in  dull 
seasons,  new  designs  can  be  made,  to  be  used  when 
needed.  Any  printer  can,  with  taste,  patience,  and  a 
desire  to  turn  out  novel  effects,  do  this  work  after 
a  little  practice. 

For  beauty,  elegance,  and  striking  effect,  bronze 
embossing  will  always  hold  the  highest  place.  Good 
results  can  be  obtained  by  using  colored  inks,  with  less 
labor  than  attends  the  use  of  bronze.  Both  bronze  and 
colors  are  now  being  extensively  use^  on  fashionable 
stationery,  and  the  demand  for  embossing  is  largely 
increasing  in  other  directions. 

Cold  dies  are  used  on  printing  presses,  but  emboss- 
ing presses  are  frequently  made  with  a  steam  blank, 
or  some  heating  attachment  connected  with  the  press, 
so  that  hot  dies  can  be  used  when  needed.  Experi- 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


9 


ments  are  also  being  made  to  heat  dies  by  means  of 
electricity  ;  which,  if  successful,  will  be  a  great  im- 
provement over  existing  methods. 


THE  FEMALE  DIE. 


The  female  die,  which  is  the  one  containing  the  de- 
sign cut  into  its  surface,  is  made  from  different  ma- 
terials. It  must  be  cut  so  as  to  register  accurately 
with  the  plate  which  is  used  in  printing  the  design  to 
be  embossed. 

The  materials  used  for  making  embossing  dies  are 
steel,  brass,  zinc,  electrotypes  and  stereotypes,  box- 
wood, and  cardboard. 

For  cardboard  or  hard  paper  on  long  runs,  steel  or 
brass  dies  are  the  best.  For  paper  or  thin  cardboard 
and  short  runs,  the  zinc  or  electrotype  will  answer  ; 
while  for  large  letters  or  panels,  the  cardboard  is  the 
simplest. 

Steel  and  brass,  being  the  most  substantial,  will 
wear  the  longest,  at  the  same  time  retaining  the  fine 
lines  and  details  of  the  die.  In  making  these  dies 
much  of  the  coarser  cutting  is  done  by  machinery, 
leaving  the  detail  and  finished  surfaces  to  be  produced 
by  hand  labor.  These  dies  will  stand  a  high  degree 
of  heat,  which  is  very  desirable  when  gold  leaf  or 


10 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


bronze  is  embossed  on  cloth  or  other  hard  surfaces, 
as  it  gives  a  high  poUsh  to  the  embossed  surface. 
Brass  and  steel  dies  are  sometimes  cut  from  a  solid, 
type-high  piece  of  metal,  which  is  the  most  convenient, 
but  also  the  most  expensive  method.  The  usual  way- 
is  to  cut  the  dies  on  metal  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick, 
and  mount  them  on  iron  bases,  as  explained  elsewhere, 
when  wanted  for  use  on  the  press. 

Zinc  dies  are  made  by  photographing  the  design  on 
a  zinc  plate  and  then  etching  it.  This  gives  only  one 
uniform  depth,  and  sometimes  leaves  a  rough  edge, 
which  must  be  trimmed  smooth  ;  and  the  die  is  deep- 
ened by  hand  where  necessary.  Zinc  dies  will  not 
stand  much  heat,  and  cannot  be  used  for  the  heavier 
kinds  of  embossing,  like  steel  or  brass  ;  yet  for  many 
purposes  they  will  answer  very  well,  besides  being  less 
expensive. 

Electrotype  dies  are  made  from  designs  cut  in  wood 
or  other  soft  substances,  which  are  then  electrotyped 
similar  to  a  form  of  type.  They  should  have  a  double 
or  triple  copper  face,  and  should  be  mounted  on  a  solid 
body,  or  in  the  same  way  as  regular  dies.  If  mounted 
on  the  ordinary  cored  metal  body,  they  are  liable  to 
give  under  pressure.  The  edges  of  an  electrotype  die 
will  also  round  off  if  used  on  very  hard  stock,  and  the 
die  become  shallow.  These  dies  will  not  stand  heat, 
and  therefore  can  be  used  only  with  a  leather  or  papier- 
mache  counter  die.  Properly  used,  however,  on  suit- 
able stock,  they  will  meet  all  ordinary  requirements. 

A  stereotype  die  can  be  made  from  an  embossed 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


impression,  by  first  filling  the  back  with  putty  or  plas- 
ter of  paris,  and  then  placing  it  on  a  stone  or  any 
smooth  surface,  with  the  face  up,  and  fastening  type- 
high  bearers  around  it  to  hold  the  metal  when  poured 
in.  Powder  the  surface  with  magnesia,  and  then  pour 
the  metal.  If  the  die  thus  obtained  is  not  deep  and 
distinct,  a  little  trimming  with  engravers'  tools  will 
make  it  so.  The  metal  should  be  of  the  right  tem- 
perature, to  prevent  burning  the  mould.  This  can  be 
ascertained  by  dipping  a  piece  of  white  paper  in  the 
metal ;  when  it  turns  a  straw  color,  it  is  at  the  right 
heat. 

Cardboard  dies  can  be  made  from  any  hard,  solid 
stock,  like  bristol  board,  and  are  best  adapted  for  em- 
bossing large  surfaces,  such  as  wood-type  lines,  or 
where  a  panel  is  desired  to  be  represented.  This 
method  is  adapted  only  for  embossing  paper  or  very 
thin  cardboard.  Instructions  for  making  cardboard 
dies  will  be  found  elsewhere  in  this  book. 


12 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


THE  MALE  OR  COUNTER  DIE. 


The  male  or  counter  die,  or  force  as  it  is  called  by 
some,  is  usually  made  on  the  press,  from  hard  rubber, 
leather,  cardboard,  papier-mache.,  varnish,  plaster  prep- 
arations, sealing-wax,  and  various  other  substances. 

HARD  RUBBER  METHOD. 

This  method  is  used  in  connection  with  steel  or  brass 
dies,  and  should  not  be  attempted  except  on  a  regular 
embossing  press,  or  for  small  dies  on  a  heavily  built 
job  press.  The  rubber  comes  in  sheets  from  one- 
eighth  to  one-fourth  inches  thick,  and  is  sold  by  the 
pound.  It  is  known  as  vulcanized  rubber,  and  is 
black  in  color,  brittle  in  texture,  and  can  be  used  only 
with  the  aid  of  heat.  A  saw  must  be  used  in  cutting 
the  rubber,  as  it  is  liable  to  split  into  irregular  pieces 
if  cut  with  a  knife. 

If  the  female  die  is  cut  in  a  solid  type-high  block,  it 
is  a  simple  matter  to  lock  it  up  in  the  chase,  the  same 
as  any  ordinary  block.  In  case  a  plate  of  metal  is 
used  for  the  die,  it  will  be  necessary  to  provide  a  cast- 
iron  base  of  a  thickness  equal  to  type-high  or  a  little 
less,  when  the  die  is  placed  on  it.  If  heat  is  necessary 
in  making  the  counter  die,  the  female  die  must  be 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


13 


fastened  to  the  iron  base  by  screws  inserted  through 
the  base  from  below  and  into  the  back  of  die,  far 
enough  to  hold  it  firmly.  This  can  be  done  by  using 
a  drill  of  the  proper  size,  and  a  tap  to  form  the  thread 
for  the  screws  in  the  holes  in  back  of  the  die.  Ma- 
chine screws  are  the  proper  kind  to  use. 

Iron  or  steel  furniture,  similar  to  the  ordinary  print- 
ers' furniture,  is  provided,  to  place  around  the  solid 
block  or  base  containing  the  die,  and  the  form  is  locked 
up  with  metal  quoins.  The  object  of  the  metal  furni- 
ture is  to  allow  the  die  to  be  heated  at  any  time,  with- 
out shrinking  the  furniture,  therefore  keeping  the  die 
in  the  same  position  during  the  working  of  the  job. 
The  heating  can  be  done  over  a  gas  stove  or  burner, 
according  to  the  size  of  die,  or  on  any  kind  of  a  stove. 
An  impression  should  be  taken  on  the  packing  of  the 
press,  which  should  consist  of  one  or  two  sheets  of 
very  strong  manila  paper.  Two  or  three  impressions 
should  also  be  taken  on  thin  card  to  form  the  over- 
lays. The  form  is  then  placed  on  the  stove  for  heat- 
ing. The  degree  of  heat  necessary  can  be  told  after 
a  little  experience.  While  the  die  is  being  heated,  all 
the  heavy  parts  of  the  design  should  be  cut  from  the 
cards.  The  design,  of  course,  will  show  white  lines  on 
a  black  ground.  All  the  blacks  should  be  cut  away  as 
much  as  possible.  This  overlay  is  pasted  to  the  pack- 
ing on  the  press.  On  a  heavy  design  it  may  require 
two  or  three  overlays  to  bring  it  up  properly.  The 
rubber  is  then  cut  to  the  necessary  size,  and  the  back 
of  it  is  scratched  or  roughened.     Rubber  cement  is 


14 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


then  heated  and  quickly  spread  over  the  roughened 
surface,  and  the  rubber  is  then  placed  over  the  impres- 
sion on  the  packing.  The  rollers  are  taken  from  the 
press,  and  then  the  form,  at  the  proper  heat,  is 
placed  in  the  press,  and  clamped  in  such  a  way  that 
it  is  impossible  to  move  the  chase  either  way  in  the 
press.  The  platen  is  then  run  up  to  the  form  with 
enough  pressure  to  force  the  rubber  into  the  die,  and 
allowed  to  remain  until  the  die  becomes  cold,  which 
will  take  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes,  according  to  the 
size  of  die.  The  platen  can  then  be  run  back ;  and  if 
the  rubber  does  not  show  the  proper  depth  the  die 
must  be  reheated,  and  more  overlays,  cut  from  card- 
board, placed  under  the  rubber.  This  is  continued 
until  the  rubber  shows  a  perfect  counter  die.  Then 
the  edges  and  necessary  blanks  are  cut  away  with 
small  chisels,  the  gages  set,  and  sheets  fed  into  the 
press  in  the  same  way  as  an  ordinary  job.  If  a  die  is 
very  large,  considerable  pressure  will  be  necessary  to 
force  the  rubber  into  the  die,  and  it  may  require  one 
or  two  persons  exerting  all  their  strength  on  the  fly- 
wheel to  put  the  press  on  the  centre  of  the  impression. 

There  is  also  another  variety  of  rubber  called  gutta 
percha,  which  is  softer  and  more  pliable  than  the  vul- 
canized. It  is  frequently  used  for  decorative  purposes, 
being  pressed  into  shape  in  moulds.  Very  little  heat 
is  required  to  soften  it  temporarily  to  receive  the 
impression.  It  can  also  be  softened  by  simply  immers- 
ing in  hot  water  and  attaching  quickly  to  the  packing 
on  platen  of  press,  without  heating  the  die. 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


15 


THE  CLAY  METHOD. 

In  using  this  process  the  dies  are  secured  to  a  steam 
blank,  fitted  to  the  bed  of  the  press.  The  die  should 
be  hot  while  making  up  the  counter  die  ;  but  for  the  em- 
bossing less  heat  is  required,  or  none  at  all,  depending 
upon  the  character  of  the  work.  A  good  general  rule 
is  to  keep  the  die  just  warm  enough  to  be  unpleasant 
to  the  hand. 

Take  binders'  boards,  two  or  three  different  thick- 
nesses, and  with  good  bookbinders'  paste  thoroughly 
saturate  one  of  the  heaviest  sheets,  and  lay  smoothly 
and  evenly  on  the  platen.  Paste  enough  m  this  way 
to  take  a  good  impression  of  the  die,  which  must  first 
be  slightly  oiled,  taking  a  number  of  impressions  on 
each  sheet  until  the  counter  is  brought  up  and  well 
defined.  Then  cut  out  pieces  of  thin  boards  large 
enough  to  just  cover  the  different  figures  ;  thoroughly 
saturate  with  diluted  paste,  and  give  each  layer  a  num- 
ber of  impressions  as  before.  All  portions  outside  of 
the  dies,  or  any  heavy  parts  inside,  must  be  cut  away 
in  order  to  bring  the  impression  heavily  on  the  high 
parts,  which  it  is  desirable  to  bring  up  sharp  and  well 
defined.  The  work  at  this  point  may  be  facilitated  by 
taking  pulverized  pipe-clay,  or  modelling-clay,  liquid 
gum-arabic,  and  paste,  using  as  follows  :  Take  about 
as  much  paste,  good  thick  quality,  as  desirable  to  have 
quantity  of  composition,  and  mix  thoroughly  with  the 
dissolved  gum,  about  one  part  gum  to  five  parts  paste. 
Then  add  the  pulverized  pipe-clay.    Thoroughly  mix, 


1 6  EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 

and  work  it  in  until  the  mixture  is  as  thick  as  putty, 
and  will  "  lay  "  smoothly  without  "  crawling."  Too 
much  gum  will  cause  it  to  "  crawl."  With  a  flat  stick 
or  knife  lay  the  composition  on  the  high  parts  of  the 
counter  die  evenly,  and  high  in  the  centre,  covering  all 
high  lines  or  fine  work  requiring  to  be  brought  out 
very  sharp.  Oil  the  die,  cover  the  clay  composition 
with  tissue  paper,  and  give  a  number  of  impressions 
until  thoroughly  dry  and  hard  as  glass.  Any  parts 
still  low  may  be  retouched  as  before ;  and  after  long 
use,  if  the  counter  works  down,  it  may  be  renewed, 
and  made  as  sharp  as  at  first,  by  simply  covering  the 
whole  face  of  the  counter,  as  described,  with  the  clay 
composition. 

Do  not  let  the  machine  stand  on  the  impression  if 
the  die  or  blank  is  warm,  as  this  will  sweat  the  coun- 
ter instead  of  drying  it. 

LEATHER  COUNTER  DIES. 

The  best  kind  of  leather  is  a  sole-leather  or  new 
belting,  which,  when  dampened  and  then  pressed, 
becomes  very  hard  and  firm.  Preparing  the  leather 
counter  die  for  the  press  should  be  done  as  follows  : 
The  iron  furniture  may  be  used  in  the  same  way  as 
for  the  hard  rubber  ;  but  it  is  not  always  necessary  to 
heat  the  die  for  leather,  and  when  this  is  not  done,  the 
ordinary  wood  furniture  will  do  to  lock  up  the  die  in 
the  chase,  if  wide  pieces  are  used  and  cut  to  a  length 
which  will  allow  their  being  used  endwise  ;  that  is,  the 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


17 


e7ids  of  the  pieces  bear  against  the  chase  and  the  die, 
the  whole  object  being  to  lock  up  the  die  in  such  a 
manner  that  it  cannot  possibly  move  from  its  original 
position  after  being  made  ready. 

One  sheet  of  hard,  stout  paper  should  be  used  for 
the  packing.  Pull  an  impression  with  ink  on  the 
packing.  This  can  be  done  by  putting  a  card  m  the 
packing,  and  removing  it  after  taking  the  impression. 
Glue  the  leather  over  this  impression,  and  lower  the 
platen  with  the  screws  far  enough  to  allow  the  press 
to  go  over  the  impression  easy.  Bring  the  platen  up 
to  the  form,  and  let  it  stand  on  the  impression  for  a 
few  minutes,  to  force  the  leather  into  the  die.  Run 
the  platen  back,  and  if  not  enough  pressure,  put  on 
more  with  the  screws.  Repeat  the  operation  until 
deep  enough.  It  is  better  to  use  the  screws  for  pres- 
sure rather  than  pack  the  platen  with  card  or  press- 
board.  Paste  the  sheet  to  the  platen.  The  margin 
around  the  raised  portion  of  the  male  die  should  be 
cut  away  to  prevent  marking  the  sheet  that  is  being 
embossed.  If  you  leave  the  press  for  any  length  of 
time,  close  it  up  on  the  impression  just  enough  to  keep 
the  leather  flat.  If  the  die  is  unusually  deep,  an  over- 
lay of  card  should  be  used  under  the  leather,  as  de- 
scribed in  the  rubber  process. 


i8 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


PAPIER-MACHE  COUNTER  DIES 

Can  be  used  with  almost  any  kind  of  die,  and  are  pre- 
pared similar  to  a  matrix  for  stereotyping,  by  pasting 
together  several  sheets  of  soft  paper,  using  paste  mixed 
with  barytes,  which  becomes  very  hard  when  dry. 
Papier-mache  can  also  be  used  for  embossing  directly 
from  type,  border,  etc.  For  some  purposes,  old  and 
discarded  material  which  has  been  laid  aside  will  give 
good  effects.  Two-color  borders  will  answer  admi- 
rably. Of  course  it  is  understood  that  it  is  the  sunken 
portion  in  the  metal  which  gives  the  raised  effect  on 
the  paper. 

After  locking  up  the  form  and  placing  it  in  the  press, 
see  that  it  fits  tight.  Make  everything  type-high  at 
first  by  underlaying,  and  pull  an  impression  in  ink  on  the 
manila  packing.  Remove  the  rollers  ;  and  after  clean- 
ing the  form,  oil  it  slightly.  Take  blotting-paper,  cut 
a  httle  larger  than  needed,  and  coat  it  evenly  with  glue 
or  strong  paste  on  one  side,  being  careful  to  keep  it 
free  from  lumps.  Place  this  on  the  packing,  and  rub 
down  smooth.  Take  a  second  piece,  glue  and  fasten 
to  the  first,  both  covering  a  little  more  space  than  the 
impression.  Then  paste  two  or  three  sheets  of  tissue 
on  the  blotters,  in  the  same  way  as  for  papicj-mache, 
and  dust  a  little  French  chalk  on  the  top  tissue.  Close 
up  the  press  on  the  centre,  and  leave  it  in  that  position 
until  dry,  which  will  take  from  three  to  ten  minutes. 
When  opened,  a  perfect  matrix  will  be  found.  Cut 
away  the  surplus  margin  of  the  blotter  outside  of  the 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


19 


matrix,  so  that  nothing  will  show  on  the  finished  work 
which  does  not  belong  there.  Reduce  the  impression 
as  needed,  set  the  gages,  and  proceed  with  the  work. 
This  method  will  do  very  well  for  short  runs,  but  there 
is  a  chance  of  the  packing-sheet  warping  or  shrinking. 
To  obviate  this,  the  blotter  can  be  glued  directly  to 
the  surface  of  the  platen. 

Another  simple  and  very  good  method  of  making  a 
papier-mache  matrix  is  to  mix  equal  quantities  of  mu- 
cilage and  barytes,  or  dextrine  and  barytes,  and  apply 
it  with  a  brush  to  the  packing,  covering  with  tissue 
paper  until  the  required  thickness  is  obtained.  This 
dries  quickly  without  the  aid  of  heat,  and  becomes 
very  hard. 

Another  method  can  be  followed  by  making  the 
matrix  in  a  stereotype  casting-box,  drying  it  with  heat, 
and  then  placing  it  on  the  press.  A  matrix  made  in 
this  way  will  last  for  many  thousand  impressions. 

Many  experienced  embossers  find  it  preferable  to 
make  the  counter  dies  before  they  are  wanted  for  use 
on  the  press,  using  either  the  papier-mache  process,  or 
some  other  method.  A  hand-press  will  be  found  use- 
ful for  such  work,  and  the  clamp  of  a  paper-cutter  will 
serve  to  give  an  impression  when  nothing  better  is 
available.  Having  the  counter  all  ready,  the  best  way 
to  prepare  for  embossing  is  as  follows  :  lock  up  the 
die  and  put  it  on  the  press  ;  make  ready  with  black 
ink,  being  careful  to  obtain  a  firm,  even  impression. 
There  should  be  only  a  thin  card  and  two  or  three 
sheets  of  tough  paper  on  the  platen.    Now  set  the 


20 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


gages  so  that  the  impression  strikes  in  the  proper 
position,  remove  the  rollers,  wash  up  the  press,  and  fit 
the  comiter  die  to  the  female  die,  using  a  little  paste 
to  keep  it  in  place.  Cover  the  back  with  paste,  and 
close  the  press,  first  removing  enough  of  the  packing 
to  allow  for  the  thickness  of  the  counter  die.  When 
the  press  is  opened  the  counter  will  be  found  trans- 
ferred to  the  platen  in  the  proper  position ;  and  it  only 
remains  to  stretch  a  sheet  of  thin  paper  over  the  coun- 
ter, after  which  the  sheets  may  be  run  through  the 
press.  If  the  embossed  impression  is  not  sharp 
enough,  a  little  more  impression  may  be  required. 
Small  local  defects  may  be  remedied  by  pasting  over- 
lays of  soft  paper  on  top  of  the  counter  die. 


WAX  COUNTER  DIES. 

Sealing-wax  may  also  be  used  for  counters.  The 
best  grade  is  jeweller's  wax,  which  is  not  so  brittle  as 
the  ordinary  sealing-wax.  When  used  for  embossing, 
it  may  be  spread  out  on  platen  of  press  after  being 
heated,  or  upon  a  sheet  of  paper,  which  is  then  pasted 
to  the  packing.  The  die  is  heated,  and  an  impression 
taken  in  the  wax.  The  counter  may  be  made  before 
putting  die  on  the  press,  by  melting  it  into  the  die 
w^hile  the  latter  is  warm.  While  the  wax  is  still  soft,  a 
piece  of  blotting-paper  can  be  placed  over  it,  and  then, 
by  covering  back  of  paper  with  paste,  the  counter  die 
can  be  transferred  to  the  platen  when  the  die  is  put  on 
the  press. 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


21 


INSTRUCTIONS   FOR  MAKING  EM- 
BOSSING DIES. 


STEEL  and  brass  are  so  hard  and  difficult  to  work 
that  they  are  unavailable  as  materials  for  home- 
made dies.  The  printer  is  therefore  restricted  to  card- 
board, boxwood,  or  engravers'  metal,  and  zinc. 

CARDBOARD  DIES. 

We  will  suppose  that  it  is  desired  to  emboss  a  panel 
for  the  front  page  of  a  small  folder  or  card.  The  de- 
sign should  first  be  drawn  on  a  piece  of  heavy  card- 
board. Any  moderately  thick  hard-finished  stock  will 
answer  ;  but  the  best  thing  for  the  purpose  is  press- 
board,  which  can  be  obtained  from  bookbinders  or 
dealers  in  bookbinders'  stock.  Having  your  design 
laid  out  ready  to  cut,  take  a  sharp  knife  and  cut 
through  the  cardboard,  following  the  lines  of  the  de- 
sign. The  knife  should  be  inclined  at  a  slight  angle 
away  from  the  centre. 

Take  an  old  electrotype  block  with  a  solid  face,  that 
will  stand  pressure  ;  lock  it  up  in  a  chase,  face  down- 
ward, then  paste  or  glue  the  outer  part  of  the  card- 
board die  to  the  bottom  of  the  electrotype  block. 
Place  the  inside  piece  in  position,  and  secure  it  with  a 


22 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


little  paste,  then  cover  the  back  with  paste  and  close 
the  press,  when  it  will  be  transferred  to  the  platen  in 
the  proper  position.    (See  figure  i.)    The  dotted  line 


shows  the  effect  of  the  dies  on  a  sheet  of  paper  or 
card  fed  in  between  them.  A  single  sheet  of  thin 
paper  may  be  stretched  over  the  counter  die  on  platen,  ^ 
and  after  the  gages  have  been  set  the  sheets  may  be 
run  through,  the  rollers,  of  course,  having  been  removed 
from  the  press  before  commencing  operations. 

WOOD  AND  METAL  DIES. 

For  cutting  these  dies  the  printer  should  provide 
himself  with  several  round  pointed  engravers'  tools  or 
gouges.  The  design  to  be  embossed  may  be  drawn 
on  the  block  or  plate,  or  a  transfer  may  be  made  when 
the  subject  is  a  line  of  type  or  a  cut.    An  easy  way 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


23 


to  make  a  transfer  is  to  take  a  fresh  impression  of  the 
form,  and  place  it  face  down  on  the  block,  then  cover 
with  two  or  three  thicknesses  of  blotting-paper,  and 
give  it  moderate  pressure  under  the  clamp  of  a  paper- 
cutter,  or  in  any  other  way  that  may  be  convenient. 

A  little  practice  with  the  tools  will  enable  almost 
any  printer  to  cut  out  simple  patterns  and  type  lines, 
so  as  to  make  serviceable  dies.  The  main  point  to  be 
observed  is  to  cut  the  lines  smoothly  and  of  uniform 
depth.  Dies  intended  for  embossing  cardboard  should 
be  cut  slightly  deeper  than  those  intended  for  paper 
only.  Boxwood  and  maple  are  the  best  woods  for 
embossing  dies. 

Trial  impressions  can  be  taken  with  blotting-paper 
as  the  work  progresses,  enabling  the  engraver  to  test 
the  quality  of  his  work. 


Fig.  2.  —  Tool  for  cutting  Dies,  with  Sectional  View  of  the  Most  Useful  Sizes. 


Engravers'  metal  blanks  can  be  obtained  from  any 
electrotype  foundry,  and  are  less  expensive  than  box- 
wood blocks  for  large  work,  but  they  are  not  so  good 
as  the  latter  for  embossing  purposes. 


24 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


ZINC  DIES. 

Dies  made  from  zinc  are  usually  produced  by  the 
photo-engraving  process ;  but  this  metal  being  some- 
what softer  than  brass,  it  will  be  found  practicable  to 
cut  dies  in  it  with  the  tools  used  for  wood-engraving. 
It  is  desirable,  however,  to  have  the  points  of  the  tools 
ground  at  a  slightly  more  acute  angle  for  the  harder 
metal. 

For  photo-engraved  dies,  take  a  bronzed  impression 
of  the  form  you  wish  to  emboss,  on  very  thin  paper, 
and  send  it  to  some  photo-engraver  who  understands 
the  requirements  for  this  class  of  work.  The  die 
should  be  made  direct  from  the  proof,  without  being 
photographed  in  the  usual  way;  and  only  two  bites 
should  be  given  to  the  plate,  which  should  be  trimmed 
up  by  hand  and  made  deeper  if  necessary.^ 

Engravers'  metal  and  zinc  dies  should  be  mounted 
on  solid  metal  bodies  in  order  to  secure  the  best  re- 
sults. Suitable  bases  can  be  made  from  old  solid 
body  electrotypes,  sawed  or  shaved  down  to  the  proper 
thickness.    Iron  or  brass  blocks  are  more  durable. 

The  dies  can  be  securely  fastened  to  the  blocks  by 
using  ordinary  glue  or  liquid  fish-glue,  which  is  applied 
to  both  sides  of  a  piece  of  thick  manila  paper,  which 
is  placed  between  die  and  block.  To  remove  the  die, 
it  is  only  necessary  to  insert  a  knife-blade  between  die 
and  block,  which  will  split  the  paper,  thus  liberating 
the  die. 

1  Instructions  for  producing  dies  by  a  simple  photographic  process 
can  be  obtained  from  the  author  of  this  book  for  a  moderate  fee. 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY, 


25 


STOCK  FOR  EMBOSSING,  INKS, 
BRONZES,  ETC. 


GREAT  care  should  be  taken  in  the  selection  of 
stock  for  embossing,  to  obtain  a  quality  which 
will  stretch  a  little  without  cracking  on  the  surface. 
Most  wholesale  paper-dealers  understand  the  require- 
ments for  this  class  of  work,  and  the  printer  should 
profit  by  their  advice.  Linen  and  bond  papers,  good 
writing,  and  high  grade  mediums  will  be  found  to  give 
satisfactory  results,  also  bristol  card  stock  and  some 
grades  of  translucent  bristols. 

A  rough-surfaced  stock  will  generally  stand  deeper 
embossing  than  one  with  a  smooth  or  coated  surface  ; 
but  the  bronze  will  not  take  the  high  polish  that  it 
does  on  the  latter.  It  also  requires  much  more  pres- 
sure to  emboss,  except  on  soft  paper  stock.  The  usual 
mistake  with  beginners  is  to  try  to  emboss  deeper  than 
the  stock  will  allow,  breaking  the  surface,  with  disap- 
pointing results.  A  little  care  and  practice  will  soon 
teach  the  printer  the  proper  depth  to  make  the  dies. 
On  this  depends  your  success  or  failure. 

The  best  inks  and  bronzes  should  be  used.  Bronze 
of  any  color  gives  a  good  effect,  from  the  pressure  of 
the  die,  which  makes  it  very  bright,  almost  like  gold 


26 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


leaf.  A  very  fine  effect  is  obtained  on  work  which  has 
several  different  colors  of  bronze  blended  together  on 
the  same  line  or  job.  The  colors  most  used  are  gold 
and  silver.  The  more  delicate  colors,  such  as  the 
patent  blues,  greens,  fire,  and  crimson,  give  good  re- 
sults in  blending  with  each  other  or  with  gold  and  sil- 
ver. This  must  be  done  when  bronzing  the  sheet. 
The  simplest  way  is  to  make  a  few  pads  from  plush, 
silk  velvet,  or  very  fine  fur,  drawn  tight  over  a  small 
block  of  wood  large  enough  to  be  handled  easily. 
The  material  can  be  glued  or  tacked  on,  so  that  the 
side  to  be  used  will  be  perfectly  smooth  at  the  edges 
and  corners.  A  separate  pad  should  be  used  for  each 
color.  When  done  in  this  manner,  your  work  will  be 
remarkable  for  richness  and  delicacy  of  coloring. 

Many  colors  are  now  being  made  by  ink  manufac- 
turers which  rival  bronze  in  brilliancy.  These  are  of 
a  very  heavy  body,  containing  a  large  amount  of  gloss 
varnish.  When  colors  are  used,  all  work  should  be 
run  with  a  very  full  color,  and  the  ink  must  not  be  al- 
lowed to  become  dry  on  the  press,  as  this  causes  a  loss 
of  brilliancy.  When  an  extra  brilliant  effect  is  desired, 
the  job  may  be  run  through  the  press  a  second  time, 
the  second  impression  falling  directly  over  the  first. 
This  plan  is  not  practicable  with  very  small  type.  If 
trouble  is  experienced  in  bronzing  plated  papers,  the 
reason  is  that  the  heavy  coating  absorbs  the  size  so 
that  the  bronze  will  not  hold.  Running  the  sheets 
through  the  press  twice  will  remedy  this  trouble,  allow- 
ing the  size  to  dry  after  the  first  impression.    The  first 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


27 


impression  will  fill  up  the  pores  in  the  paper,  while  the 
second  will  cause  the  bronze  to  hold  firmly. 

Sometimes  bronze  will  rub  off  after  the  size  is  dry, 
especially  on  steel-blue  paper.  This  trouble  is  prob- 
ably caused  by  size  which  is  thin  and  oily.  A  size 
should  be  selected  which  has  a  good  body,  without 
being  so  strong  that  it  pulls  the  surface.  Frequently 
this  trouble  is  caused  by  reducing  with  improper  re- 
ducers. 


PRESSES  FOR  EMBOSSING. 


EMBOSSING  presses  are  now  being  built  by  the 
leading  press  manufacturers.  They  are  stronger 
and  heavier  than  regular  job  presses,  as  the  essential 
requirement  for  this  class  of  work  is  great  force  of  im- 
pression, although  with  some  of  the  methods  which 
are  applied  to  the  making  of  the  counter  or  male  die 
on  the  platen  of  the  press,  the  strain  is  very  much  re- 
duced. Good  work  can  be  done  on  any  of  the  stan- 
dard job  presses  now  in  use,  but  embossing  should  not 
be  attempted  on  presses  without  side  arms. 

An  ordinary  eighth  Gordon  press  will  take  a  good 
sized  die,  if  the  male  die  is  made  from  papier-mache\ 
and  the  force  applied  directly  on  the  lines  to  be  em- 
bossed, leaving  no  pressure  on  the  blank  space  of  the 
female  die.    If  leather  is  used,  a  die  not  larger  than 


28 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


two  or  three  inches  square  should  be  attempted  on  an 
eighth  press. 

For  a  larger  die,  use  a  press  in  proportion.  Chases 
that  fit  tight  in  the  press  will  save  annoyance  and  a 
great  many  failures  in  making  ready. 

In  locking  up  dies,  care  should  be  taken  to  adjust 
the  furniture  in  such  a  way  that  there  will  be  no 
springing  or  movement  during  the  working  of  the  job. 
This  is  essential  to  good  register,  as  well  as  prevent- 
ing injury  to  the  counter  die. 

In  all  work  of  this  kind,  the  utmost  nicety  and  care- 
fulness should  be  exercised,  —  in  the  cutting  of  the 
stock  to  get  a  smooth  edge  to  feed  to  the  gage,  and 
the  feeding  of  sheets  to  gage  every  time,  both  in  print- 
ing and  embossing.  The  embossing  must  register 
exactly  with  the  printing.  While  feeding  the  sheets, 
care  must  be  taken  not  to  feed  the  sheet  too  hard 
against  the  gage,  as  this  will  spring  it  away.  Another 
source  of  trouble  on  many  presses  is  the  tendency  of 
the  nippers  to  move  the  sheet.  If  these  do  not  come 
down  and  leave  the  sheet  squarely,  take  them  off  or 
remove  outside  of  the  sheet,  and  use  strings  across 
from  one  nipper  to  the  other.  Quads  or  metal  gages 
must  always  be  used. 

Don't  be  discouraged  at  the  first  failure.  It  will  re- 
quire a  little  practice,  like  everything  else,  before 
complete  success  is  attained. 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


29 


SUNDRY  HINTS  AND  SUGGESTIONS. 


THE  most  suitable  type  for  embossing  is  a  moder- 
ately heavy  face,  with  spaces  between  the  letters, 
—  for  small  type,  a  card;  and  for  large  type,  two 
cards  or  a  lead,  according  to  size.  The  object  of  this 
is  to  allow  space  for  the  stock  to  stretch  while  under 
pressure,  giving  a  good  register. 

Type  having  the  lines  composing  the  face  of  nearly 
uniform  thickness,  like  Gothic  faces,  gives  a  better 
effect  when  embossed  than  faces  like  the  DeVinne, 
where  the  difference  in  the  thickness  of  the  lines  gives 
an  irregular  appearance  to  the  embossed  impression. 

In  order  to  get  an  accurate  transfer,  the  form  should 
be  electrotyped,  and  the  transfer  taken  from  the  elec- 
tro. If  a  transfer  is  made  directly  from  the  type-form, 
the  chances  are  that  it  cannot  be  used  the  second 
time,  because  a  form  can  rarely  be  locked  up  and 
made  to  fit  the  die  exactly  a  second  time. 

The  lighter  grades  of  work  give  the  best  results  to 
the  general  printer.  It  is  best  to  commence  on  small 
work  at  first,  so  as  to  get  an  idea  of  how  to  work,  and 
feel  your  way  as  to  the  amount  of  pressure  your  press 
will  stand  without  strain  or  injury. 

Many  materials  can  be  used  to  produce  novel 
effects,  such  as  a  piece  of  coarse  sandpaper  for  the 


30 


EMBOSSING  MADE  EASY. 


male  die,  and  blotting-paper  for  the  female  die,  one  or 
the  other  pasted  on  the  platen,  and  the  opposite  pasted 
on  a  block  to  be  locked  in  the  chase.  If  you  know 
how  to  use  the  papier-mache  material,  and  possess  a 
stereotype  press,  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  make  female 
dies  from  a  good  many  objects  that  will  suggest  them- 
selves.   Binders'  cloth  can  also  be  used  as  a  matrix. 

Many  good  effects  can  be  obtained  from  metal  dies, 
in  which  the  design  has  been  made  by  drilling  and 
punching  with  7^epousse  tools.  Matrices  can  also  be 
made  from  the  numerous  small  medallions  which  are 
used  for  ornamentation  in  various  ways. 

Suggestions  as  to  designs  can  hardly  be  made  in 
words.  One  good  rule  is  to  take  everything  into  con- 
sideration —  stock,  color,  or  bronze,  appropriateness, 
etc.,  before  commencing  any  embossed  work.  Deli- 
cate designs  and  lettering  should  be  run  in  the  various 
bronzes  and  dark  inks,  while  heavy  designs  make  a 
good  appearance  if  run  in  delicate  tints. 

When  a  die  is  too  deep  for  the  stock  to  be  embossed, 
the  surface  of  the  paper  or  card  is  apt  to  crack.  This 
can  be  prevented  by  securing  a  sheet  of  manila  paper 
to  the  grippers  of  press.  This  will  come  between  the 
die  and  sheet  to  be  embossed,  making  the  impression 
softer.  Tin  foil  may  be  used  on  the  grippers,  instead 
of  paper,  if  obtainable. 


SPECIMENS 

OF 

EMBOSSING 


SPECIMENS  OF  TYPE  FACES 

SUITABLE  FOR  EMBOSSING. 


24-PoiNT  Rowland  and  Howland  Open. 

CHRISTMAS  59  Ceremoiy 


mum 


30-PoiNT  Virile  and  Virile  Open 
0  0 


24-PoiNT  Erratic  and  Erratic  Open. 

QUAINT  Paro^er! 

24-PoiNT  Quaint  and  Quaint  Open. 


24-PoiNT  Epitaph  and  Epitaph  Open. 

KING  UPQM  KM 


24-PoiNT  Samoa. 

Bf ?Sht  NEW  PACES 

36-PoiNT  Makart. 

pecorale  and  Bepainis 

The  solid  and  open  letters  shown  on  this  page  will  register 
when  printed  in  two  colors. 


Sample  of  C.  R.  &  Co.'s  Wedding  Plate  Paper. 


SPECIMENS  OF  TYPE  FACES 

SUITABLE  FOR  EMBOSSING. 


i8-F(>iiil  Muluf<.nn  No. 

BRILLIANT  LETTERS 

^o-l*<(iiil  Johnson. 

Apti5ti(j  6mbo6sing 

'24-F<nn1  Konald.sdn  (Jofhic. 

SUMMER  Night  Festivals 

■24-\\»»t  "riulor  F.lack. 

3f  ine  5ob  Kbrinting 
JIHT/ST/C  PRIflCIPLE 

^6-F()i»t  Hojighioii. 


Saraj)l<'  i>i  r.  K.  vt  Co.'s  l'iirad'>.\  Cover  I'iijut. 


Sample  of  C.  R.  &  Co.'s  Universal  Bond.- 


The  Specimens  on  this  sheet  illustrate  an  effective  method  of  working 
ordinary'  stock  cuts  with  white  letters  on  a  solid  ground.  A  block  is  cut  to  fit 
the  lettering,  which  is  printed  in  bronze,  and  embossed,  the  cut  itself  being 
worked  in  a  tint. 

A  piece  of  sandpaper  was  used  for  embossing  stippled  ground  around  the 
Menu  cut.    The  raised,  panel  for  lower  cut  was  embossed  with  cardboard  dies. 
Either  cut  on  this  sheet  furnished  complete  with  embossing  die  for  $1.50. 


Sample  of  C.  R.  &  Co.'s  Litho.  Plate  Paper. 


This  sheet  illustrates  the  application  of  embossing  ordinary  stock  cuts.  The  die 
was  cut  in  zinc  by  hand.  A  wooden  die  would  answer  equally  well  if  a  limited 
number  only  were  required 


Sample  of  C.  R.  &  Co.'s  Universal  Bond. --Azure. 


Sample  )t'  <.'.  K.  A  (^o.'s  Universal  Boud  Paper. 


The  medallion  die  at  top  of  ' this  sheet  was  made  by  pouring  melted  type  metal 
over  a  brass-ornament. 

The  border  was  embossed  direct  from  a  strip  of  wood  border,  which  cnn  be  obtained 
in  a  large  variety  of  faces  from  wood  tj'pe  manufacturers. 

The  fancy  ornament  at  bottom  of  page' was  embossed  with  a  v.'ooden  die. 


Sample  of  C.  R   &  Co.'s  XXX  Emerald  Laid  Antique. 


TYPE  fOUHPERS'  CO. 

Branches  in  all  principal  cities. 

Make  90  per  cent,  of  the  Display  Type  made  in  U.  S. 

Dealers  in  Printers'  Hachinery  and  flaterials. 
Complete  Outfits  at  Special  Prices. 

New  York,  Boston,  Philadelphia,  Chicago,  St.  Louis,  Milwaukee, 
Cincinnati,  Baltimore,  Buffalo,  Pittsburgh,  Cleveland,  Kansas  City, 
St.  Paul,  Omaha,  Denver,  San  Francisco,  Portland,  Oregon. 

General  Offices :  Cor.  Duane  and  Rose  Sts.,  New  York  City. 

C.  J.  PETERS  &  SON, 

Electrotypers  and 
^'^^  Photo=Engravefs, 

145  HIGH  ST.,  BOSTON,  MASS. 
EMBOSSING  DIES  A  SPECIALTY. 


Send  25  cents  for  lOO-page  Catalogue  of  Stock  Cuts.  Dies  kept 
in  stock  for  many  of  these  cuts. 


HAMILTON  MFQ.  CO. 

TWO  RIVERS,  WI5. 

MANUFACTURERS  OF    .    .  . 

Wood  Type, 

Cases,  Stands,  Cabinets,  etc. 

The  strongest  and  most  handsomely  finished 
Printers'  Furniture  made. 

SEND   FOR  CATALOGUE. 

Solid  Rock  Maple  for  Embossing  Dies;  lo  square  inches,  or 
over,  by  mail,  2c.  per  inch.  Orders  of  500  inches,  or  more,  ic. 
per  square  inch. 

Useful  Hints  on  Imposition. 

A  RRANGED  by  a  practical  pressman,  and  giving  a 
^  series  of  new  diagrams  of  imposition  never  before 
published,  and  suited  to  all  kinds  of  work.  It  also 
gives  a  number  of  valuable  double  form  impositions  for 
pamphlet  work,  which  may  be  printed,  folded,  stitched, 
and  covers  put  on  before  cutting  apart.  All  these  dia- 
grams are  guaranteed  to  fold  correctly,  and  without 
turning  the  sheet.  Also  the  broad  way  of  folding,  both 
single  and  double,  and  to  read  down  from  page  to  page, 
both  single  and  double. 

Price,  SOc.    With  "Embossing  Made  Easy,"  $1.25. 

P.  J.  L.AWLOR,    .    .   A\2iI<Ien,  A\2iss. 


The  Inland  Printer 

Published  monthly,  »3.00  per  year.  Sl.OO  for 
six  months.    Twenty  cents  per  copy. 

THIS  Printers'  Art  Magazine  contains  more  matter  of  vital  interest  to 
the  craft  each  month  than  all  the  other  papers  in  the  country  com- 
bined. Elegantly  illustrated;  beautifully  printed;  every  issue  a  gem. 
If  you  are  not  receiving  it,  do  not  delay,  but  place  your  subscription  at 
once  with 

THE  LEADER  OF  ALL  PRINTER.S'  MAGAZINES, 

THE  INLAND  PRINTER  CO,,  Publishers,  CHICAGO. 


Carter,  Rice  &  Co., 

(INCORPORATED) 

Paper 

246  Devonshire  5t..  Boston. 


The  Paper  for  the  Embossed  Specimens  In  this 
Book  was  furnished  by  us. 


Embossing  Composition 

For  Making  Counter=Dies  for  Embossing  on  Job  Presses- 

This  preparation  differs  materially  from  other  substances  used  for 
the  same  purpose,  having  among  its  ingredients  certain  chemicals 
which  are  sensitive  to  the  action  of  light.  When  dry,  after  a  short 
exposure  to  light  and  air,  the  composition  is  of  stone-like  hardness. 
It  requires  no  heating,  and  is  always  ready  for  use.  Instructions 
sent  with  every  lot.    Put  up  in  screw  top  glass  jars.    Price,  75c. 


0 


Tbc  Cover  of  tbiy  BooK  is  frorp  tl>e 

HASTINGS  CARD  CO., 

(limited) 

26  BEEKHAN  STREET,  NEW  YORK  CITY, 

Wbo  rD2iHe  2i  5peci2ilty  of  Erpbos^ed  Cov- 
ers, ap^I  of  c2ir<I-bo2ir<I  zipd  pzvp^r  suit2vble 
for  Erobossing  worh.  52irr)ple5  will  be 
seot  to  t}>e  trzicle  upop  appHczitioo. 


